Irishman’s wall
ok..not that obscure but totally worth a feature-this place is great fun with its quiet, varied routes and quality granite walls-grades range from Mod up to E2 5c so there is something
for everyone-info also available UKC-javu and south devon and dartmoor new route extra
supplement type thing-remember treat with respect, rubbish home,brush off that chalk and
be nice to ramblers as they tend to perch on top of “non metallic silver” buttress and eat their lunch whilst watching climbers breaking out into a cold sweat, trying to get up “white
spider directissma”.....I know.....I was that climber
1 “surform” HVS 5b-hard start and the crack is usually wet and green-easier at the top
2 “bank holiday bimble” VS 5a-strenuous start-crux move under the mid break with small
finger pocket to series of laybacks off of flakes to the top (nic loves this route)
3 ”ann, jim and mary” S 4b-that flared crack is a hard start-follow the flakes to the top
4 “central corner” M-the obvious central corner/ variation-stay on the face and out of the
corner to up the game to S-not much gear though but easily escaped (un-named mod)
5 “meader’s mutterings” HS 4b-right up the middle of the slab-nice series of moves with
limited gear-fun top out
6 “caffrey’s” S 4a-around the arete, short vertical wall direct
just on from this there is a small tower that offers a gulley route with a huge wobbly block
at the top-right of this is a flattish wall, climb direct on slopers-HARD (both ungraded)
far left-fab finally gets
the solo start on route 3
left-nic finishing on the
variation of route 4
7 “murphey’s” VD 4a-nice jug to start then follow the groove line
8 “guinness” VD 4b-stuck on jugs to the left of route 7-both finish in the same spot
9 “corner gulley” VD-crawl up the weed choked gulley-watch out for loose earth
10 “white spider directissma” E2 5c-up the steep wall and overhang-pointy rock start but
keep to the left and avoid the obvious line to the right-it’ll catch you right out!
11 “non-metallic silver” E2 5c-the left hand overlap to exposed finish-just watch your gear
placements here again, lots of nasty boulders at the base
12 “leprechaun” E2 5c-the wall right of route 11,the overlap direct-hard start......hard finish
13 “not very” VD-to the right of route 12-take the line to the right of the arete, interesting
start or alternatively move to the left with a diagonal right to left line
a couple of hundred metres to the south west is higher tor-situated on the south side
is a corner with a short,flat wall to the left- the following three routes can be found there
A “bird went bang” HS-move out to the arete and stay on the edge-thin moves to top
B “fabs crack” S 4a-stay on the flat wall direct-series of delicate moves to nice finish
C “bridge over fabs crack” D-bridge using both walls
all these routes have a great block belay at the top-to the right of these is an obvious
tower that offers lines either side of the highest point with a rather exposed and
rounded finish
bouldering is plentyful but you need to have a bit of a mooch about-”east 14” is well worth
an assault (try the sitting start!)-move north along belstone ridge and there is also a lot of
potential with the terraced crags down that way including a highball roof type thing
Monday, 31 Mar 2008
surform buttress
non-metallic silver buttress
2
1
middle bay
surform buttress
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4
5
6
ndcc
middle bay non-metallic silver buttress
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8
9
10
11
12
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12
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10
11
A
B
C
11
mca on non-metallic traverse-right to left
“east 14”