smoothlands sector
just look at those boulders, they’re sooooo smooth and there are no holds, it’s all in the
friction and technique....can’t do it....nope...I’m going home to watch ‘diagnosis murder’
Saturday, 18 July 2009
alpha boulder on the left..and on the right, that’ll be bravo boulder
above- alpha boulder. two
of the many lines, the left
problem being THE most
bonkers mantle that goes
at about V6.....probably!
the line on the right is the
start of the unrepeated
smoothie traverse V8-ish
depending on the rock
condition, somedays it is
very grippy, other days
it’s really slippery
left-smoothie traverse and
below, same problem but
looking back to alpha
routes are
described
left to right
east/west
landings are
very good
watch out
for seagulls
nudists and
falling rock!
smoothie traverse
also has a selection
of ‘ups’ but watch it
with the highball
stuff...rocks above
are about 400 feet
below-the everso
slightly excellent
bravo boulder with
the ‘dark side’ on
the left
this area has a lot
of lines, traverses
and ‘up and overs’
bravo boulder’s
northern edge
mantle is a lot
easier than the
one on alpha,
but it will still
take several
attempts
below left. ‘the
dark side’ from
another angle
below right, full
on view-bravo
boulder
left hand line,
‘white lines’ V3
middle,
as yet not done,
mca came close
but fell off at the
third hard move
right hand line,
‘power amp’
about V2 ish,not
an obvious line
but sooo good
when you can
figure it out
that’ll be nic just
sat there doing a
thousand yard
stare
left, ‘wave’
numerous lines
including the
very hard L-R
traverse, routes
can continue
up to the top
slab but it gets
to about 18ft
with a slightly
rubbish landing
so careful there!
right, ‘the slab’
well nice this is,
at the last count
there were about
five lines,
the best problem,
start with both
hands on the big
flake in the centre
and mantle, then
drive to the top
in conclusion, this place is really hard to find unless you actually know it- access relies on the
wet bit (um...the bristol channel that is) being out, and hopefully the rock being dry- the problems
can be downright perplexing most of the time but if you like fine technical stuff they can be great
fun and put a dirty great smile on your face.....or not!