autumn rocks!
well at last.....the wet stuff seems to have gone south and a big bright thing is in the sky again- we can all get outside on dry rock and have a thoroughly good time (there is only so
much you can take of climbing walls before they become a regular source of inane and
repetitive boredom)
as usual we went to venues that were a tad obscure but always seemed to end up at hound
tor for the bouldering circuit and hound of the basket meals- we have even come up with a
new problem on the south side of perched block involving two existing classics (next entry
for details)
hayne down has also sprung a few gems with a pumpy V3 on crystals and a savage double
sided boulder problem up above bowermans nose- one route involved a reachy sitting start
to a sloping mid break, right leg into a high foot jam and two crimpy slopers to finish which
saw mca top out to end up at the feet of a female holding a mountain bike above her head
for a camera (on top of the same boulder)- the usual pleasantries were exchanged like
“afternoon, that bike looks light” and “what’s that big mat thing down there?” well, you get
the picture-
smallacombe rocks has also been one of our favourite haunts with its seemingly limitless lines
and excellent problems- there are a couple of really highball problems (‘buzzard” V1 5b or HVS
if you continue up) and also a few lines on middle slope sector where a bouldering mat just
isn’t going to stop the multiple fractures if you sketch- so next week a rope and cams will be
stuffed in the bag as well as the pixie juice so we can tick the boxes-
oh...talking of bowermans nose- these rambler types got into a conversation with us about how
they would like to see someone climb up it- with that it was noticed that there was indeed a
half height traverse around it with a reallly hard featureless wall kind of on the west side that
could provide some jollies for the tartan flask club (especially if a climber sort succumbed
to gravitational related chaos) but hey.....look at the photo
so....we didn’t do anything, we just yomped off to the east leaving the cheese and pickle sarni
brigade watching us walk away while clutching at their flasks and looking very disappointed-
dvd’s then- ndcc bouldering dvd number two “second coming” is now finished and out there
for all to enjoy, nice footage and great soundtrack thanks to funkmaster stan and the guys-
number three is in the planning stages and rumour has it that it will be much longer now that
mca has sorted out how to tweak i movie for full effect- camera will be handed fully over to
nic again who has already done a great job- talk is now of a harness steady cam type affair
so that film can be taken in most places, “mucky gulley” at dewerstone will be the test zone
for that so stay tuned-
Sunday, 19 October 2008
sharks fin boulder classic in the sun
problem 32 V1/5c houndtor mca
that would be a green buzzard then
random shots from last months gallery
nic in a dress!
smallacombe summit sector
a few routes that we had fun on-just before the cow attack
javu route 15 V0-4c luvverly short flake
mca’s wall (use the crack only if you have to)
17 16
big shiny thing in the sky- looks cosmic-
recommend-don’t stare too long!
sharks fin boulder problem three V1 5c